The Roaches

The Roaches is a stunning gritstone crag overlooking the Staffordshire Moorlands, with Tittesworth Reservoir stretching out in the distance below. Sitting at around 400 metres above sea level, it commands vast panoramas of the surrounding hills and moorland. The crag is split into two main tiers, with a wide range of climbing spread across both. Most problems are found on vertical to slightly slabby walls, demanding balance and precise footwork, while steeper, more physical roof problems are scattered throughout for those after something more powerful.

Facing south-west, it catches the sun for much of the day, making it an ideal summer morning venue or a late afternoon winter crag, often accompanied by spectacular sunsets over the distant hills.

Route recommendations
Pine Martin 5
Blister Slab 5
Sprung 5+
Joe's Arête 6a
Three Pocket Slab 6a
The Greener Traverse 6b
Long Boulder Mantel 6b+
Calcutta Crimp 6c
Gritstone Bouldering Pissup 6c
Nadin's Traverse 7a
Sleeping with the Flowers 7a
Spring Slabn 7a
Inertia Reel Traverse 8a+

Climbers have been exploring the Roaches for well over a century, with the first recorded route being J. W. Puttrell’s Raven Rock Gully (D), climbed in 1901. The area continued to develop through the decades, with legendary figures such as Joe Brown and Don Whillans leaving their mark during the early 1950s.

Nestled amongst the boulders at the centre of the crag sits the 200-year-old Don Whillans Memorial Hut, which was reopened in 1993 and named in honour of one of Britain’s most iconic climbers. While many of the earliest first ascents of the gritstone boulders have been lost to history, it is likely that climbers of Brown and Whillans’ generation played a significant role in exploring and developing the boulder field through the 1950s and 60s.