Description

Renovation and development work on Tyresö-Flaten is now finished (fall 2026). The main wall now features 22 fully bolted routes and 3 mixed/trad routes, ranging in grade from 4 to 7a+.

This peaceful crag is beautifully situated along the Sörmlandsleden, right beside the lovely lake Tyresö-Flaten, about 400 metres south of Nyfors. The scenic surroundings make it a pleasant place to spend the day, with plenty of opportunities for grilling sausages and other refreshing outdoor activities.

The crag is mostly vertical to slightly overhanging, with a moderate height of around 10 metres. The routes feature a mix of small to medium-sized crimps and edges, while scattered cracks of varying quality add some variety to the climbing.

Attention: In some places, there are cliffs/ledges some 10 metres from the wall where kids could fall and get seriously injured or die.

In addition to the Main wall, there are also two smaller sectors:
Wall by the water
Don't miss this overhanging face located down by the water, 50 meters northwest of the Main wall. It's nice and has two fairly modern bolted routes.

Kojklippan
has two quite fun but badly bolted routes. Kojklippan is located in a narrow ravine about 20 meters in front of the Main wall. This sector is not yet renovated.

Environment Main wall: West-facing. Some trees in front, but mostly sunlit.
Environment Wall by the water: Southwest. Open.
Environment Kojklippan: North-facing.

History

Mats Olofsson and Marco Kupianen started to develop this crag back in 1995. As usual, they utilised a rather restrictive bolt policy, not bolting more than they thought necessary. I don't know what to say about their name policy, but I wouldn't call it restrictive. The names on the routes have now been slightly modified for a more polished feel. A renovation of the Main wall began in 2026 and is now complete.