Description

Turningstone Edge is a wonderfully peaceful location, making it ideal for anyone looking to escape the crowds. Its east-facing orientation means it only catches the morning sun, making it an excellent venue for summer climbing, as the crag remains shaded for most of the day.

With around 100 boulder problems of varying difficulty and angles, from delicate slabs to steep roofs, there is something here for everyone.

Dense vegetation surrounds much of the crag, meaning it can be slower to dry after rain and may become a little green during the winter months. However, conditions generally improve as the season progresses.

Route Recommendation
Jelly Start 5
Cock Jockey 5+
Split Tip 6a+
Jelly Tot 6a+
Pagen Cross 6c
Underton Arête 6c+
Big Yellow Taxi 7a
Salle Goose 7c
River of Life 7c+

History

Climbing here began, as with many gritstone crags, as a traditional climbing venue in the 1960s. Over time, it evolved into a popular bouldering destination. The crag itself is known for its dense, invasive rhododendrons, which were heavily cut back in 2016 with the help of the local climbing community.