Sector Torelli
Hidden in plain sight within the Mystras Canyon, this sector offers a variety of engaging lines across different angles, lengths and difficulties. The area is dominated by mostly vertical to slightly overhanging walls, with two central, very steep and eye-catching caves.
The climbing itself features plenty of small jugs, crimps, tufas and huecos with grades primarily in the easy to mid-range, reaching up to 8a.
The orientation of the wall is also worth mentioning. The larger, south-east facing section provides early shade during the hot summer month, while the rest of the wall offers highly sought-after sunshine in the colder winter season.
Most routes arte equipped with 10mm 316L stainless steel expansion bolts, while several lines also feature Andy Long's homemade, signature 316 staple glue-ins. It is difficult to predict the long term safety of these bolts, as flash rust has already appeared (though still easy to brush off) after a relatively short time - but we can only hope for the best, right.
Some of Torelli's original lines were recently rebolted, adapting them to modern bolting standards for improved safety. In addition to the standout routes established and rebolted by Andy Long, several steep "king lines" were also added by G. Kopalides and myself. In most cases, the routes follow natural features of the rock, with a few exceptions where detours along shared, easier terrain were preferred over keeping lines separate and potentially more difficult.
It is clear that Andy and his collaborators have put significant effort into developing this sector and the community should be grateful for that. A main concern, however - and one that comes up repeatedly - is Mr. Long's alteration of natural rock formations in order to reduce the difficulty of potential harder ( high 7th and low 8th) lines to a level he can climb himself. Practices such as drilling holes and using Sika to enhance hand- and footholds are generally considered outdated, reminiscent of the climbing ethics of the 80's. That said, it seems not everyone shares the same view on this ethical shift.
The guiding principle should be to create routes that serve the wider climbing community and future generations, rather than tailoring them to the abilities of a single individual. So far, personal discussions with Andy Long have not been fruitful, and no agreement has been reached to stop these destructive techniques. But, trying to see the positive side: most lines up to the french mid 7 grades remain untouched and unmodified and the sector will likely never attract large crowds, so the impact of these ego-driven practices may gradually fade into obscurity.
Sector Kyniska
The left guarding wall of the Mystras canyon has been transformed into a climbing sector featuring two distinct sub-sectors. The first section offers dark grey slabs and vertical, long lines in the lower grades. After a "short" uphill hike, you’ll find the second part, which hosts slightly overhanging lines in the easy and mid-grades. The bolting is generally quite close, making for a comfortable lead if you are climbing at your limit.
Sector Lagadiotissa
After a scenic approach and the obligatory ringing of the church bell, you’re faced with short, incredibly dense-bolted, steep lines. For the grades, the climbing is punchy, following huge tufa formations and small roofs. Tucked away in the tight canyon near the water, temperatures here can differ significantly from the outside. While the sun disappears early depending on the season, keep in mind that the tufas stay wet for a long time after rain.
