Although it could be considered just another wall within the large Sierra de Toix crag, we will treat this quiet and secluded sector as a completely independent area. Besides having a significantly different orientation from the rest of the Toix walls, its parking lot is more than 2 km away from the main parking area that provides access to the bulk of this popular crag. The left side of the sector features a large number of multi-pitch routes opened in recent years, offering a climbing style somewhere between traditional and sport climbing. For this topo, we will omit those routes and focus only on the more accessible lines of the main wall. The sector offers about 30 routes ranging from IV to 7b, featuring an “old-school” slab style, a very comfortable approach and base, and spectacular views of the town of Calpe and its iconic Peñón de Ifach.
Description
History
Its origins date back to the early 1980s, when members of the Club de Montaña de Calpe opened the first lines. Later, foreign climbing parties such as the Swiss climbers Erika and Pel and the English team Mark and Roland Edwards added a significant number of routes, raising the maximum difficulty to 8a with Adiós Dalí (currently unclimbable due to old, unsafe anchors). By the early 2000s, the proximity to the sea caused a gradual deterioration of most anchors, leading to the practical abandonment of the area. Fortunately, in the early 2010s, the Club de Montaña de Calpe carried out extensive re-equipment, restoring most existing routes and giving a second life to one of the most comfortable and popular crags on the Costa Blanca.
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