Description

A very popular crag with an easy approach, nice environment and good routes.

ASPECT AND CLIMATE
The main crag is facing southeast and is in the sun until afternoon. Most of the routes dry quickly. You can often get good weather here when it is raining in Göteborg. A perfect spring and autumn crag. The leftmost part of the crag gets some shadow from trees.
You’ll find a nice beach by following the gravelled road past the crag for about 800 m.

THE ROUTES
All routes at the crag are more or less overhanging. The main crag is slightly overhanging in its left part with routes in most grades while in its right part it is much steeper, more spectacular (i .e. awkward for some) and the routes here are in the upper grades. Skogsklippan have some shorter and easier routes.
Almost all routes are bolted and equipped with lower-offs.

History

The main crag of Tjörnbroklippan is clearly visible from the road and was noticed by climbers for some years. As the crag dos not look so impressive from the distance nobody cared to stop and check.

It was first when Jens Larssen decided to pull over and check out, that the potential of the crag was discovered. The main development took place in the second half of 1990's with sector Skogen developed during 2014.

Tjörnbroklippan

Climbing has been limited!

10 - 16 August 2026 - NO climbing due to cows on pasture !

NEVER PARK ON THE GRAVELLED ROAD IN FRONT OF THE CRAG OR AT THE PARKING LOT IN FRONT OF THE GARAGE!
DO NOT BLOCK THE ACCESS TO THE FIRE TUNNEL.

Do not climb at the crag when there are grazing animals in front of it (that happens a couple of times every year).

Check even https://access.bergsport.se/tjornbroklippan/.

🚗
From Göteborg take motorway E6 northwards. Leave the motorway at exit 90, Stora Högamotet (signs for Tjörn/Orust/Stenungsund) and follow road 160. Follow this road over the big bridge and continue for some kilometres until you’ll see the crag on the right (at the bus stop, about 2 km after the traffic lights after the bridge). DO NOT TURN RIGHT ONTO THE GRAVELLED ROAD. Instead, turn left and park in front of the fire tunnel (do not block any road or access to the tunnel).
The drive is about 50 km.
🚶‍♀️
From the car park follow the gravelled road through the tunnel under road 160 and you’ll arrive at the crag after some minutes.