Description

Svarten is a north‑facing sport climbing crag that began to be developed in the early 2000s, although most of the routes were established in the mid‑2020s. The crag is clearly visible from the road between Varberg and Ullared. It offers routes up to 20 metres in length. The climbing here is quite enjoyable and takes place on large formations.

Environment: The crag faces north and remains in the shade until the evening. It is pleasant on warm summer days but dries slowly in spring. The proximity to the busy road detracts from the experience somewhat, although the stream in front of the crag compensates a little.

Climbing: The routes are vertical or slightly overhanging and somewhat broken, yet they offer enjoyable climbing. The crag is a bit lichen‑covered as it is not climbed very often. All routes are bolted and equipped with lower‑offs.

History

The first routes were bolted in the beginning of 2000s but most of the line were opened in the mid-2020s.

Svarten

Climbing has been limited!

NOTE
The road in front of the crag will be widened. The work will start in the autumn of 2026 and hopefully it will be finished sometime during 2027. This will certainely make the access to the crag harder (if possible at all) during the work period.

The drive from Gothenburg is approximately 90 km. Note that the parking lay‑by is located in a bend on the left‑hand side (if approaching from Varberg) on a well‑trafficked road. It is safer to drive past it and turn around on the straight section a few hundred metres further on, rather than making a left turn in the bend. From the parking, follow the road back towards Varberg and you will reach the crag after about 200 metres of walking.