Stanage Plantation Bouldering

Stanage Edge has been explored by climbers since the 1890s. Today, the Stanage Plantation is probably the most popular bouldering venue in the Peaks, if not the UK.

Stanage Plantation offers a classic gritstone experience, characterised by technical climbing on slopers and crimps. With a vast array of problems, there is something for everyone.

Stanage Edge faces predominantly south-west, and the rock dries quickly, meaning that even after poor morning conditions, the crag is often climbable by the afternoon.

It’s a truly beautiful setting, with boulders scattered below the edge itself. Many have flat landings, and there are plenty of grassy areas to relax, making it a good option for families.

Route Recommendation

Crescent Arête 5+
Crozzle Slab Arête 6a+
Steep Traverse 6c
The Green Traverse 7a
The Hippo 7a+
Captain Hook 7b
Brad Pit 7c
Gorillas in the Mist 8a

The bouldering history of Stanage is staggering, with some of the best climbers in the world having left their mark at the Plantation.

Highlights include John Allen’s 1976 ascent of Not to Be Taken Away and Shirley’s Shining Temple in 1986, Ron Fawcett’s unbelievable padless ascent of Careless Torque (8a) in 1987. Jason Myers Brad Pit (7c) from 1995 and Jerry Moffatt’s The Ace (8b)in 2001, which was recently flashed by Adam Ondra.