Stanage Far Right

The Far Right area of Stanage Edge is an ideal venue for those new to outdoor bouldering. It offers a good selection of easier problems, typically with favourable landings, making it particularly suitable for beginners and families. That said, there is also a solid range of harder problems, up to 7a and beyond, for those looking for more of a challenge. Its short, straightforward approach and close proximity to Sheffield contribute to its popularity.

The setting is excellent, with fine views along the edge and across towards Burbage Valley. The climbing offers a classic gritstone experience, with technical moves on slopers and slightly coarser rock than is typical. Its south-east orientation means that a light breeze or cooler conditions often provide the best friction

One of the best features of this crag is its sunsets — if you time it right, you can be treated to some truly wonderful views over the rolling hills of the Peak District.

Recommendation
The High Road 3+
Three Tiered Cake 5
Gripple Nipple 5
Easy Walling 5+
Gripple Grapple 6b
My Crazy Head 6b
Battered Sausage 6c
The Hatchet, 6C+
Sloper Traverse, 7a
Hamper's Hang 7a
A Case of Mistaken Identity 7b

The Far Right area of Stanage Edge was historically quarried for its gritstone during the late 18th and early 19th centuries, and remnants of this can still be seen in the form of scattered millstones along the edge. Nearby are the famous routes of Joe Brown — Right Unconquerable and Left Unconquerable (1949), widely regarded as two of the most sought-after HVS/E1s in the country.

In recent years, there has been relatively little development in the area, and while putting this guide together, many unclimbed boulders were found, still waiting to be cleaned and climbed.