A semi-forgotten crag with great easy trad routes for first-time trad climbers, but also very difficult overhanging trad for highly experienced climbers. A bit overgrown, especially the approach, but hopefully with some traffic that can get better with time...?
Beautiful views and evening sun is also part of the experience.
This crag is located in the forest right behind and above the gardens of some houses. Remember to keep the volume down and be respectful.
How to get here:
WITH CAR: Follow Tyresövägen and turn right towards Tyresö slott on Brakmarsvägen. Follow the road about 1.5km until you can turn into a tiny road on your left side called "Passet". Follow this road for about 50 meters and then turn right onto Vallvägen. At the end of Vallvägen is a cul-de-sac where you can park just off the asphalt.
WITH BUS: Take bus 875 from Gullmarsplan until the end station Tyresö Kyrka. From here there is about a 2km walk.
If you're lucky on a weekday you might be able to catch 817 towards Raksta, which goes once an hour some parts of the day. Go off at Vallvägen. This saves you about 15 minutes.
FROM THE PARKING:
Walk up the kind of hidden path from the cul-de-sac up to the left. There's a lot of bushes and dead trees so it's not very convenient but it is a very short walk. You will arrive at the right wall.
