Description

To this day, it can be firmly stated that this sector is one of the greatest emblems of the Cabeçó d'Or and one of the most spectacular, demanding and unique walls of the entire Costa Blanca. It is famous for its hard approach (40’), its exhausting climbs and its severe grading. Here you will enjoy extraordinary routes full of slopers and crimps that you will rarely find elsewhere. Although there are some sixth-grade routes, most of its routes are seventh- and eighth-grade ones, so it could be said that it is a practically restricted sector for high-level climbers.

History

In 2003, this impressive overhanging wall (which you can see from the Chorreras sector) caught the attention of the restless Alex Kammerlander. After completing its demanding approach and checking his tremendous potential, he bolted its first three routes, Sherpa, Canario and Guanche. Paradoxically, and despite some other contributions, the sector went virtually unnoticed for the climbing community until, in 2009, Alex Kammerlander himself resumed the opening activity and began its definitive development.

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Climbing has been limited!

The climbing in this sector is regulated due to protected species nesting and therefore, its climbing is prohibited between the months of December and June (both included). Exceptionally, these dates may vary, so you will have to be duly informed through the information panel installed at the beginning of the access path and the website http://akamerlander.xyz/. There are some routes that reach or even exceed 40m, so it is strongly recommended to use ropes of the greatest possible length (80 or even 100m) and always make a knot at the end of them.

How to get to the parking area:

From the A-70 take exit 1 N-332 Sant Joan/ El Campello CV-800 Xixona Mutxamel and follow the indications CV-800 Xixona Mutxamel. After 1.6 km take the CV-773 Bonalba/ Busot exit and follow the CV-773 Busot indications. After 6.7 km you will arrive at a roundabout where you will take the CV-774 exit Jijona/ Cuevas del Canelobre. After 2.6 km, take the Cuevas del Canelobre turnoff on the right and after 2.3 km you will arrive at the parking lot, just after a very sharp right curve.

Approach:

From the parking lot, take the track on the left. At the first crossing, take the branch on the right and go up a steep paved ramp. Right at the end, take a path born on the right hand side and continue without deviating until reaching a kind of rocky path where, next to a fallen pine, you will take a small path on the left (if you reach some wooden steps, go back). After passing through the fallen pine, follow the path on the left which will begin going upwards and will take you directly to the climbing sector.