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Short wall with an approachable start. 9 quickdraws.
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Two distinct cruxes, with careful route reading. 17 quickdraws.
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Pleasant opening pitch from the ledge. 9 quickdraws.
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Technical middle pitch with a committing move. 10 quickdraws.
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Final wall to the summit. 6 quickdraws. Descend in three abseils; a 50 m rope is sufficient.
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Short wall beside Tagliata al sangue. 9 quickdraws.
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Technical opening with long reaches on small edges. Belayer anchor at the start.
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Sustained climbing on edges. 15 quickdraws.
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Vertical climbing on edges and flakes. 17 quickdraws.
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Lower wall ending at the first anchor. 9 quickdraws.
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Lower wall followed by the much harder upper extension.
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Technical crux before the first anchor. 9 quickdraws.
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Technical lower section followed by two harder cruxes. 18 quickdraws.
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Climbing on edges followed by a sustained finish. 16 quickdraws.
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Wall line to the right of Red Tube.
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Wall line between Red Tube and Movimento Ar...dito.
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Line at the right edge of the south wall.
There are 3 routes that have not yet been drawn on a topo image. See full list of routes from Parete sud .
Access is sensitive!
🅿️ PARKING:
• Piazzale Margherita, beside the Albegna river and the fountains, just before the bridge at Roccalbegna.
• GPS: 42.787361, 11.509692. Check the signs: summer parking may be limited to two hours. The parking below the bridge is an alternative; allow five extra minutes.
⏳ APPROACH TIME:
• 10–15 minutes from Piazzale Margherita.
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🚶🏻
Drive to Roccalbegna (GR), about 45 minutes from Grosseto. Park at Piazzale Margherita near the bridge. At the far end of the parking area, with the fountains behind you and the river on your right, take the uphill lane. It soon becomes a woodland path. Follow the cairns and signs for the crag, then continue leftwards along the marked trail to the rock face.
⚠️ ACCESS:
A nesting-related climbing closure was reported in spring 2026, with a stated end date of 31 July 2026. Reopening has not been confirmed. Check the current situation with the municipality and local bolters before visiting, and respect any closure signs.