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All routes on Rocca Di Piancavallo
Parete Nord Est
Parete Nord Est
1 / 3
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Six pitches on sculpted walls and an overhanging crack. Obb: 6b. Bring 12 quickdraws and two 60 m ropes. Abseil the route, clipping directional bolts on L5 and L4. Pitch details are listed in the individual L1–L6 entries.
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Six sustained pitches on the right-hand pillar, ending above the large cracked arch at Pianka Rule’s penultimate belay. Obb: 7a. Spaced bolts require confident climbing. Bring 12 quickdraws and two 60 m ropes. Abseil via Pianka Rule, clipping directional bolts on L5 and L4. Pitch details are listed in the L1–L6 entries. First free ascent: Paolo Ramò, August 2019.
Parete Nord Est
2 / 3
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Small-roof crux at the start; watch the less solid exit rock.
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Six pitches on sculpted walls and an overhanging crack. Obb: 6b. Bring 12 quickdraws and two 60 m ropes. Abseil the route, clipping directional bolts on L5 and L4. Pitch details are listed in the individual L1–L6 entries.
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Continue up the technical, sustained wall.
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Technical wall climbing between the lower belays.
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Follow the striking overhanging crack.
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Sculpted vertical limestone with edges and water-worn holds. Obb: 6b.
Parete Nord Est
3 / 3
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Demanding upper section to the shared belay; check rock in the final dihedral. Abseil via Pianka Rule with two 60 m ropes, clipping directional bolts on L5 and L4.
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Continue through the upper wall towards the arch.
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Intense, complex moves on the steep central wall; spaced bolts.
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Continue up the compact wall to the next belay.
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Sustained technical climbing up the right-hand wall.
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Gain the grey pillar from the starting ledge; check loose rock. Obb: 7a.
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