Description

Llíber is most likely one of the most beloved and visited schools in the entire Marina Alta. For years, it has enjoyed a great charisma within the climbing community, and the recent openings on its right side, which allow climbing throughout the whole day, consolidate it as one of the destinations preferred by climbers in the area and also national and foreign visitors.

It has one of the most comfortable and shortest approaches in the entire province of Alicante, three sectors that offer more than 80 routes with a wide variety of grades from V to 8a+, and the possibility of choosing sun or shade for virtually the whole day. On its left side you will find the most classic itineraries of the place, with more than 40 predominantly vertical routes that do not reach 20 meters as an average height and where the sixth and seventh grade clearly predominate.

Just to your right, you will discover the new part of the crag, known as Alejandría and divided into two sectors; the left one is formed by a vertical wall of about 18 meters, with 14 routes between 6b and 7a, while the right side presents an area of small caves with seventh-grade explosive overhangs and a vertical wall of high quality with easier lines that reach up to 20 meters long.

History

Roy de Valera would mark the beginning of climbing in this area with the opening of the famous Lliberpool route (trad), in 1986. Subsequently, the mythical duo - with a great opening momentum - formed by Chule and Viri, a marble worker from Gata de Gorgos who, thanks to his job, was one of the few who already had a wireless drill, would carry out the sport climbing equipment for this first route, in addition to opening a large number of other routes in the Antigui sector and some random lines in the walls on the right side of the crag. It should be noted that as a result of this first stage of the 90s, itineraries such as La bella, La bestia and Tarzan de los monodedos would appear, routes with an innovative mindset and a very advanced difficulty for the time.

Tino Ferrer would be the next main character of this story, sending the previous ´futuristic´ lines and bolting some of the great classics of the area. Along with him, a Swiss unknown climber, would also provide three of the great references in the area, all of them located within the seventh grade.

Already at the end of the old century, Pedro Navas, a disciple of the aforementioned Tino Ferrer, would take over his master's artwork of bolting, giving birth to the first 8a of the entire Marina Alta (currently downgraded to 7c+/ 8a due to the use a simpler beta in its hardest part). With the arrival of the new millennium, other local climbers, with Tolo Catalá as the leading role, would be in charge of completing the routes of the Antiguo sector.

However, in 2014 Blas Roca directed his gaze towards the walls on the right side and began bolting the left side of what would end up being the Alejandria sector. Already in 2016, he worked on the right side of this new sector, addressing both its short and explosive overhangs as well as its technical and delicate vertical walls, thus completing a wide variety of climbing styles, a significant expansion in the number of routes and a notable increase in the medium difficulty of the crag; the facts that have put Llíber itself as one of the most important areas in the entire Marina Alta.