Novakuša

Novakuša: A Hidden Gem of Herzegovinian Limestone

Novakuša is rapidly becoming a dreamland for climbers seeking high-quality, steep, and demanding sport climbing in Herzegovina. Situated in the serene landscape of the village of Bišina, along the road between Mostar and Nevesinje, this crag offers a unique combination of raw natural beauty, a striking atmosphere, and world-class rock. At an elevation of approximately 800 meters, it serves as the perfect summer sanctuary, providing much-needed shade and cool air when the lower crags around Mostar and Blagaj become too hot for serious sends.

The Rock and Climbing Style
The climbing at Novakuša is defined by its impressive, long, and steep lines. The rock is exceptional limestone, offering everything from technical face climbing to powerful, endurance-based routes on overhanging terrain. The crag is dominated by the majestic Starina Novak cave, a site steeped in local history and legend, which provides a visually stunning backdrop and a unique “big wall” feel.

While the crag is a paradise for experienced climbers looking for hard projects and long stamina-testing routes, it is becoming increasingly accessible. There is a solid selection of 6th-grade routes, ensuring that climbers of various levels can enjoy the incredible friction and the quick approach that Novakuša offers.

A significant contribution to the quality and character of the climbing comes from the bolting efforts of Igor Čorko, Siniša Škalec, Ivan Ljubičić, Boris Čujić, and Vedran Vračar, who together helped establish many of the lines during the key development phases of the crag.

Rest Days and Atmosphere

When you aren’t on the wall, the Nevesinje area offers a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle. The atmosphere is quiet and authentic, far from the crowded tourist hubs. Whether you want to explore the history of the Starina Novak cave—named after the legendary hajduk who according to folk tradition sought refuge in these heights—or simply enjoy the local hospitality in the village of Bišina, Novakuša provides a complete outdoor experience.

Preservation and Future

As Novakuša continues to grow, respect for the rock and the surrounding nature remains a priority. The development is a labor of love by the local climbing community.

If you wish to contribute to the continued equipping of the crag or need the latest info on routes, please reach out to:

Milorad Dragović — milorad.dragovic00@gmail.com
Denis Serdarević — denis.climbing@hotmail.com

By climbing here, you are part of a new chapter in Herzegovinian climbing history.

The story of Novakuša is one of collaboration and passion. The first lines were envisioned and equipped by Matjaž Zorko and Denis Serdarević, laying the foundation for what would become a top-tier destination.

However, the transformation of Novakuša into a fully-fledged crag is largely thanks to the dedicated local efforts and continuous work on the ground.

Milorad Dragović (Nevesinje) has been a driving force behind the crag’s development, playing a vital role from the early stages to the present day. Alongside Denis Serdarević and in cooperation with ASPK Neretva and SPK Blagaj, Milorad has been instrumental in not only creating the routes but also in the ongoing maintenance and expansion of the sector.

A major milestone occurred in the summer of 2025, during a high-profile bolting weekend. This event brought together a strong team of climbers, including Igor Čorko, Ivan Ljubičić, Siniša Škalec, Vedran Vračar, Jere Cokarić, Hrvoje Grancarić and Boris Čujić, whose collective expertise, combined with the leadership of the local team, helped establish Novakuša as a destination known for its high-quality bolting and challenging grades.