Newstones, Baldstones

Newstones and Baldstones are a fascinating stretch of gritstone bedrock, worn and exposed over years of erosion, leaving us climbers with some unique gritstone to explore. Strange lines and features run through the rock, creating problems such as the Ripple

The crag sits out on the open moorland before the Roaches, giving it a remote and peaceful feel despite being only a few minutes from the parking. The first boulders appear almost as soon as you reach the edge, with the rock continuing westwards across the moor.

Its east-facing aspect makes Newstones a great year-round crag, catching the morning sun in winter while offering shade during summer evenings.

Route Recommendation
Elephant's Ear 4+
The Final Stretch 5
Varicose 6a+
Ripple 6b+
Charlie's Overhang 6b
Stallone Arête 6c+
Baldstones Traverse 7a+

Climbing at Newstones began a little later than at many of the older crags in the area. With the Roaches long established as the local highlight, attention did not turn to Newstones until the 1970s. A notable early route was Ray’s Roof, established in 1977. Bouldering development followed in the 1980s