In recent years, Mas de la Penya has established itself as one of the most important areas in the entire Costa Blanca. Nowadays it could be considered the Alicante paradise of the seventh grade. It has one of the most beautiful and extensive walls in the entire province, with more than 80 vertical or slightly overhanging routes reaching an average length of 25 meters where you will find several fifth-grade routes, numerous sixth-grade lines and more than fifty seventh-grade ones. Its peculiar limestone rock, with blue and orange tones, provides a great assortment of pockets and crimps, in addition to a rare kind of studs protruding from the wall which will rarely be found anywhere else. All these characteristics, together with its short approach and its comfortable belaying area, very suitable for the youngest of the family, have made Mas de la Penya one of the most visited destinations during the winter, both by climbers from Alicante and from outside the province.
Although there was an old line of burins of unknown origin, it could be said that its history begins in January 1990 with the birth of the climbing section of the Cocentaina Hiking Center. This new section, led by Marc Reig, Vicent Castelló “Meño”, Paulí Pascual, Óscar Juan, Pep Palací, Valentín Ramos, J. Albert Albors and Manolet Sanchís, was in charge of carrying out the first openings in the area in the vertical slabs on the right side of the wall, characterized by their opening always from the ground, with spits and with the collaboration of a large number of members of this section. The routes Primeres pases (first route of the school), La xunga and Starway to heaven, could be considered as the most relevant of this first stage. The generational replacement would take place at the end of the 90s with the arrival to the club of the young Quique Ivorra and Josep H. Pascual "Pepet". With renewed energy, new material and a much more sportclimbing mentality, influenced by their numerous climbs in Montserrat, this couple would carry out a new expansion of the area, bolting the whole wall and seeking for hard and overhanging routes. Finally, during the last years of the 2000s, Mikel Zapata, a climber from Vitoria, who, after settling in Cocentaina, would take a leading role by bolting a large number of routes and contributing, along with the others, to the definitive development of this great crag.
Access is sensitive!
Many meetings and negotiations took place in order for the first bolters and climbers in the area to get to an agreement with the owner of the farmhouse where the walls are located. Since then, relationships have always been nice and we must continue to do everything in our hands to keep it that way. Although they are extensive to other crags, the Cocentaina Hiking Center (CEC) places special emphasis on the following rules of action within the Mas de la Penya climbing area: Park your vehicles only in the designated areas. The road through which the PR V-37 goes through, very frequented by hikers and cyclists should be left free for circulation. Do not scream. Respect the unbolted routes through the nesting season, from February to July, and if nests are found, notify the local climbers or the CEC. Do not leave any type of garbage or stubs. Keep pets under control. Do not leave climbing marks. Finally, remember that we are on a private land (access path included) within the Sierra de Mariola Natural Park, so your behavior must be exemplary. The quarry area and the land after it until the parking lot are also privately owned, so vehicles are not allowed, and neither are overnight stays (parking included). It is strictly forbidden to make any fire and practice free camping. The CEC owns a refuge, Refugi les Foietes. There is an indicative sign just in front of the parking lot. For more information visit their website http://el-centre.blogspot.com/p/refugi-les-foietes.html.
How to get to the parking area:
From the A-7 take exit 443 Alcoy (north)/Cocentaina (south) and follow the signs for Cocentaina south. At the first roundabout in the town center, just after leaving a shopping center on the right, take the third exit on Calle Benifleta and immediately turn left at the first detour (very sharp curve). After following this road without turning off for 2.6 km, you will find the parking lot at the beginning of a track starting on the right-hand side.
Approach:
From the parking lot, follow the main track for 270 meters and at the turnoff , turn left towards PR V-37 Castell/Sant Cristofol. After a few meters, you will see the first tracks of the right side of the wall.