La Grotte aux Fées is a smallish area near Milly-la-Forêt, so quite central in the forest of Fontainebleau. The area is more or less spread out in 3 sectors and has some of the best roof traverses in the forest. If you want to challenge yourself on one of the hardest lines the place has to offer -Lazarus 8b- or you want to enjoy some technical powerful overhanging traverses and train power-endurance 💪💪, then this might be the place to go!
Easily combinable with a shopping/washing or filling-up-gas day as it is located next to the Intermarché SUPER Oncy-Sur-Ecole. From there you walk about 6 to 10 minutes to see the area.
Notable climbs:
Lazarus 8b ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
En Attendant Alex 7c+
Magic Fingers 7c
Onconomy Circulaire 7b+
Peter Parker 7b ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
L'Effet Toit 7a
Morgane à Tics 6c
📝 Information about naming:
The most striking or hardest lines give the boulders their names. Most lines are concentrated on a few single boulders or a dense area.
🍁 Season:
The main part of the area is located on a hill and will see sun throughout the day. After a day of rain not all the roof climbs will be dry and cracks might be seeping with water, so make sure to avoid those. After a day of wind everything should be climbable. Don't climb on wet rock, thanks!
🧗 Climbing style:
A lot of hard traverses and roof climbing with every type of hold and movement (good for power-endurance). But you'll find a bit of everything.
