Kuuanvuori is easily rated as a ⭐️⭐️⭐️ crag and brings a lot of high-quality climbing to the Turku area. Compact area and short approaches. The quality of the rock varies from very good granite, including gneiss, to smooth sandstone problems.
All sectors offer a wide selection of different holds and moves. The sectors are mostly well shaded during the summer, and the quality of the rock is above average — mostly pretty much perfect.
Syvä pääty sector offers vertical and technical climbing from 5–6C. This sector dries the slowest after rain. The first route in the sector was established by Susanna, and it is called Lantion salaisuus.
The easiest descent from the Syväpääty sector is to traverse left along the top and descend behind the large boulder, from the cave to the trail. And Loppukesän valssi is easist to descent with downclimbing Kaltevatorni
Aitokivi sector offers very high routes with different styles, including compression, roofs, aretes and technical vertical climbing, as well as high slab topouts. There are also a couple of good routes for kids. This sector dries second quickest. The first route of this sector is made by Joni J. This three-star compression problem is called Juhlaliikkeiden lyhyt oppim.
Especially "Join Me" needs to be prepared well with the landing!
Kaareva kanttikivi offers the best warm-up routes, with low topouts and long traverses. It dries pretty quickly. The first ascent of the block was by Susanna. Here you can find also couple of harder problems. Problems from soft 5's to 7A
The Sandstone sector offers a highly diverse range of climbing on an exceptionally unique type of rock, rarely seen in Finland. In many routes, the rock closely resembles sandstone, while the small boulder in particular provides an excellent opportunity to experience this distinctive, fine-textured rock quality. The sector also features high and demanding routes that challenge experienced climbers, as well as both easy and difficult slabs and steep walls, with both low and high top-outs.
This sector dries quickest thats already developed!
Routes are from 5 to 7A.
Classics: 7A's Kyy Vako, Ringo Star 6C, Ringo's trick 6C+ and many surprisingly good shorter boulder problems from the small block and slab corner.
The Highball Sector mainly offers very tall boulders, along with a few trad lines. The easiest highballs are around 4–5 in difficulty. The sector also features excellent rock quality and offers plenty of opportunities for opening new routes.
An absolute classic of the Highball Sector. Gneissiputous combines exceptional-quality rock with big, positive holds and long, flowing moves all the way to the top. The climbing is straightforward and enjoyable, but the height adds plenty of exposure.
A perfect highball for climbers who cruise grade 5 and are looking for something tall, proud and memorable.
Pähkinämuuri is the most recently developed wall (still in development) with plenty of lines still available to climb and establish. There are many existing projects in the area, and we kindly ask everyone to respect them and give the first ascensionist the opportunity to work them.
All the walls between Syvä pääty and Sandstone corner are free for development! Except those that are marked as a projects.
Also sunny "Optical Telegrap" sector has a lot of potential routes.
