Description

Other small but significant cliff in Rovaniemi region.

West side (wanha puoli) is full of horizontal cracks - similar to Karhunulkki. Infamous for sandbag grades!

East side/new side has the HUGE roof. Holding few classic lines: Kyberpunk (mixed), Ajattelen sinua kun kuolen (trad) and Wanha mestari (sport).

📅 Season: For rock climbing May-September.
West side is sunny, east is shady.
Height is around 8-12 meters.

History

Cliff was found around 2001. At the first climbing happened on west side "old side". Sport 6a-6c first ascents in 2004 by Lunnas companied by Saarinen and Jussi Muittari.

The huge roof on new side seemed too hard until around 2005 Tapio A. spent lots of time on the cliff opening new lines.

For some history and some FA's see Playground - Climbing movie from Lapland (2007) https://youtu.be/zbXIHkeKblU?t=1818 .

Käärmerakka

Access is sensitive!

⚠️ Road is most likely soft quite late till spring/early summer, up to June. Do not drive if car leaves grooves behind, this is permanent damage!

🚗 About 45min (52km) drive from Rovaniemi. Last 8km on gravel road. Address: Kermajärventie, Ylitornio.

🅿️ 🥾 West/old: Parking on small roadside spot. Address about: Käärmelaentie 67, Ylitornio. About 5 min walk. Walk uphill, no path.
🅿️ 🥾 East/new: Parking for 1 car on crossing. Address: Kermajärventie 808, Ylitornio. Another parking bit furher. From first parking walk bit further on road, then turn left to forest road and follow it until you see boulder and cliff on left, about 10min walk.

🤿 Nearby Lake Kermajärvi (few hundred meters from east side parking) is superb for swimming.