Description

Higgar Tor is one of the Peak District’s most distinctive gritstone outcrops, rising above the Burbage Valley with stunning views across to Burbage and over towards Stanage. Its exposed position gives the crag a real mountain feel and, while it can be a fantastic place to climb on a crisp, still day, it is also one of the first venues to catch the wind.

The climbing is incredibly varied, with something for climbers of every ability. Many of the classic boulder problems are found along the east-facing edge closest to the parking, but venture further around the buttresses and larger walls begin to appear. Continue around to the south-west side and you’ll discover even more hidden boulders and quality problems tucked away among the weathered rock.

A lot of the landings are uneven and require a little extra care.

Higgar packs an impressive number of excellent problems into a relatively small area, making it an ideal destination for a relaxed session or as part of a day exploring the surrounding crags.

Route Recommendation

The Big Slab 4+
Tall Arête Left-hand 5+
Pillar Eliminate 6A+
Sick 6B
Seventy Degrees 6B
Like Pommel 6B
Witness The Gritness 7A
The Flying Arête 7A+
Shit 7B

History

Like many of the Peak District’s gritstone crags, Higgar Tor has been explored by generations of climbers. Traditional climbing here dates back to the late 1940s and 1950s, when pioneers such as Joe Brown and Don Whillans established many of the classic routes that are still sought after today. The bouldering potential of the crag was realised much later, particularly during the late 1980s and 1990s, as climbers from Sheffield began searching for new problems away from the more established venues.

The rock also bears the scars of its past. During the Second World War, the surrounding moorland was used by British and Allied troops for military training, with mortar practice taking place around the tor. Evidence of this can still be seen today in the pockmarked gritstone, a lasting reminder of the area’s wartime history.