Description

Hafsten is a peninsula rising at most 119 m above sea level. It forms part of the Havstensfjorden nature reserve, which in parts is also designated as a Natura 2000 area.
Hafsten is located just a few minutes from Vindön (4 km by car), and the two crags complement each other well.

THE CLIMATE
The crag faces north-west and most of it receives sun (in summer) after 3 p.m.
The rock stays unexpectedly dry after short rain, but once water has seeped through from above, the routes dry relatively slowly (not a spring crag).
The surroundings are pleasant, with the sea just below the crag and good swimming possibilities.
There is a potable water tap at sector Hamnen.

THE ROUTES
There are both short and longer routes (up to 20 m), ranging from slab to vertical and slightly overhanging lines. All routes at the crag are well bolted and equipped with lower-offs.
The rock is most often full of holds but can be somewhat chossy and occasionally even loose. Given the fact that routes are quite new and proximity to the sea, there is a high risk of holds breaking. Use caution and a helmet is strongly recommended.

History

The development of the area has been a collaboration between Hafstens camping, Jens Larssen and Joar Ekberg. The potential was identified by Jens Larssen in 2024, and since 2025 a large number of routes have been established here.

Routes on Hafsten
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Hafsten

Access is sensitive!

DIRECTIONS
The drive from Gothenburg is about 90 km.
There are paid parking areas on both sides of the camping (you can drive past the reception). The parking closer to the crag is often full in the summer, use the northern parking in such a case.
Note that parking fees apply only between 15 May and 15 August.

From the northern parking area, you can see the crag across the bay. Follow the tarmac road towards the camping. Just before reaching it, turn left onto a smaller tarmac road (no traffic sign). After about 100 m, turn left again onto a gravel road descending towards the sea. You should soon reach sector Första väggen.
The walk-in is about 650 m.

The other sectors are reached by following the shoreline (see overview). The furthest sector is about 1 km from the parking area.

The first sectors are easily accessible with small children and prams. From sector Rolling Stones onwards, the path is not suitable for prams but still easy to walk. Sector Universum is likely difficult to reach with small children.

ACCESS
Park only in the designated paid parking areas and walk to the crag.
Show consideration for camping guests.

Note that all climbing takes place within the Havstensfjorden nature reserve, on camping grounds and near a harbour. At the first sector (about 100 m from the water slide), there is a sign explaining the rules. In short: do not collect large amounts of shellfish, do not light fires, and dispose of rubbish at the bin by the pier. A passenger boat operates from this pier in summer.

During peak summer, many campers will be moving around below the crag. Keep a low profile and be friendly. Given that the crag faces north-west, the risk of nesting birds is low, but if encountered, inform the reception so the relevant sector can be closed.

Climbing is at your own risk. On newly developed routes and after winter frost, small rocks may come loose. Report any safety issues to the reception.