Description

This beautiful beach and canyon are located in the southern part of Albania near the well-known beaches of Dhermi and Jale. Gjipe is accessible via boat, or it’s a 20 minute hike down from the (paid) parking area. This is an amazing area with beautiful routes climbing the walls of the secluded canyon or snaking up the short cliffs by the beach. The routes range in difficulty from 4–8b. Currently there are over a 100 bolted pitches with potential for more. Most of the routes are single pitch but there are a several multipitches between 2 and 5 pitches in length as well. Some sectors haven't seen a lot of ascents yet so please be aware: you might encounter some loose rock from time to time.

ATTENTION: Most routes here were bolted in the period between 2011 and 2013 using A4 stainless steel bolts. In some cases though the bolts quickly showed signs of corrosion. We, local climbers from Tirana, have been working on rebolting with titanium. We rebolt little by little, whenever we have the budget, starting with the routes we deem most urgent. Check the route info to see if a route has been rebolted, and make your own judgement about the state of the bolts!

History

The first know technical climb in this canyon was done in 1993 by Adriano Marini, Mario Vannuccini, Giuseppe Miotti. All that is known about this climb is that it's supposed to be 150-meters-high, and graded VII-.

The next action these rocks saw was when between 2011 and 2013 a group of climbers from Süd Tirol visited and bolted most of the routes that are here today. Ever since other visiting climbers have added a new route here and there.