Although most climbing of the Cabeçó is recommended for climbers with a certain level, here we will find the ideal alternative for all those looking for more affordable routes and with a fast and comfortable approach. There are more than 40 routes where the sixth grade abounds, some fourth- and fifth-grade lines and several seventh-grade routes up to 7c. All these routes run along an almost vertical wall that often exceeds 40 meters high and brings up a very technical climbing on crimps and rain drops. The quality of its limestone is not always the best and therefore, the bolting of the sector was a work of authentic engineering by its developers. Being located just above the famous Cuevas del Canelobre, very visited throughout the year, it was necessary to build a footpath to prevent erosion of its steep terrain as well as the installation of protective nets and the consolidation of large blocks (with some rods of up to 20 mm thick) to avoid its demolition and avoid serious damage to the facilities and parking of the caves.
All this work was carried out in 2015 by Juan Fco. Ruiz “Tocayo” and Ángel Ayela, with the collaboration of other members of the Busot Mountain and Climbing Club and with the support and sponsorship of the City Council itself.
Access is sensitive!
It is strongly recommended to use the main parking described in this guide. Within the visiting hours of the Caves we have the possibility to park just before the second fence of the road, practically under the climbing walls. The parking spaces located after this second fence are reserved exclusively for visitors to the Caves. After visiting hours, the fences will remain locked, so if you park here and arrive after they get locked, your vehicle will be locked up until the next day. You may find the rooster in the information panels of the Caves and on the website https://turismobusot.com/las-cuevas-del-canelobre/. On the right hand side of the sector there is a micro flora reserve that deserves our utmost respect. There are some routes that reach or even exceed 40m, so it is strongly recommended to use ropes of the greatest possible length (80 or even 100m) and always make a knot at the end of them. The use of the helmet in this place is almost mandatory.
How to get to the parking area:
From the A-70 take exit 1 N-332 Sant Joan/ El Campello CV-800 Xixona Mutxamel and follow the indications CV-800 Xixona Mutxamel. After 1.6 km take the CV-773 Bonalba/ Busot exit and follow the CV-773 Busot indications. After 6.7 km you will arrive at a roundabout where you will take the CV-774 exit Jijona/ Cuevas del Canelobre. After 2.6 km, take the Cuevas del Canelobre turnoff on the right and after 2.3 km you will arrive at the parking lot, just after a very sharp right curve.
Approach:
From the parking lot, follow the paved road until the Cuevas del Canelobre. Once there, you will get to the crag through an obvious path born at the end of the parking lot, on the right hand side.