Description

This is the best tufa wall in the entire Costa Blanca. Also known as Principal, Deportivo, Chorreras or Sucina, this sector is one of the flagships of the Alicante climbing and a benchmark in terms of tufa climbing. Its colossal dimensions have given rise to marathon routes reaching in some cases almost 60 meters long, in addition to others that reach the top through sport climbing routes of 3 and 4 lengths. It has several routes of sixth and seventh grade, although advanced climbers are the ones who will enjoy these walls the most.

History

Back in the year 2000, José López “Sucina”, advised by his friend Juan Carlos Pérez “Mecha”, began the development of this area with the bolting of the route ´Sensación de Pinzar´, a wonderful route with a first pitch which could well be considered as one of the best 7c with tufas in the world. Then, he would continue bolting most of the ´classics´ in this sector, all of them with the signature of “Sucina”. Already during the second decade of the new millennium, the tireless Alex Kammerlander would start bolting here too, providing several routes that would complete the wall at its ends, and would also be responsible for bolting each and every one of the multi-pitching routes that reach the top of this great piece of rock.

Cabeçó d'Or Chorreras

Climbing has been limited!

The climbing in this sector is regulated due to the nesting of protected species and climbing here is prohibited between the months of December and June (both included). Exceptionally, these dates may vary, so please inform yourself properly through the information panel installed at the beginning of the access path, and the website http://akamerlander.xyz/. There are some routes that reach or even exceed 50 m, so it is strongly recommended to use ropes of the greatest possible length (80 or even 100m) and always make a knot at the end of them. In some routes, it is mandatory to make an intermediate belay-point to reach the ground.

How to get to the parking area:

From the A-70 take exit 1 N-332 Sant Joan/ El Campello CV-800 Xixona Mutxamel and follow the indications CV-800 Xixona Mutxamel. After 1.6 km take the CV-773 Bonalba/ Busot exit and follow the CV-773 Busot indications. After 6.7 km you will arrive at a roundabout where you will take the CV-774 exit Jijona/ Cuevas del Canelobre. After 2.6 km, take the Cuevas del Canelobre turnoff on the right and after 2.3 km you will arrive at the parking lot, just after a very sharp right curve.

Approach:

From the parking lot, take the track on the left. At the first crossing, take the branch on the right and go up a steep paved ramp. Right at the end, take a path born on the right hand side and continue without deviating until reaching a kind of rocky path where you will find several steps made of wood. These will take you to the sector after overcoming an awkward ramp through a pine forest. (In the rocky path, DO NOT take the path on the left (fallen pine tree)).