Burbage South Edge

Burbage South Edge lies on the south side of the Burbage Valley and is far less well trodden than its counterparts, Burbage North and Burbage South Boulder. The edge itself sits away from the main walkers’ track, giving it a much more secluded feel. Unlike the smoother, more continuous feel of Burbage North, Burbage South Edge has a more fragmented and rugged character, with scattered blocks left behind by historic quarrying, creating an excellent collection of classic Peak District boulders.

You’ll find a wide variety of problems here, from technical slabs to steep, overhanging prows. Its north-west orientation makes it a great venue for warmer sunny days, with shade available until the afternoon. It also makes for an excellent afternoon spot during the winter months.

Route Recommendation
Matterhorn Slab 3+
Lens Arête 5
Standup Arête 6b
7 Ball 6c
The Grazer 6c+
Triangle Wall 7a+
Electrical Storm 7b
The Rib 7b+
Pigs Make Nests 7c

Burbage South has a long climbing history and is home to some of the hardest lines in the Peak. The first traditional routes were established here in the early 1930s, including Eric Byne’s Byne’s Crack (HS 4b), while later pioneers such as Joe Brown also left their mark on the crag.

Bouldering development took off in the 1980s, with John Allen playing a major role, including the first ascent of Bath House Pink (7A) in 1987. More recently, Jim Pope has continued to add new lines, ensuring the area remains an important venue for both historic classics and modern test pieces.