Turnica

A bit about Turnica and the crag The first routes—First, Gemby, Bugazza, Marina, and Žaba—were bolted in the early 1990s by local climbers, including Marino Medica, the brothers Flavio and Dario Gamboc and others. Years passed before other routes were bolted. This happened in the late 1990s and early 2000s, including Peter Pan (https://youtu.be/84z3t92TjzA) and Turnica. The routes were cleaned and bolted by Doriano and Tiziana Perhat (who run the Muntravo climbing club in Rovinj) and by my parents, Paride Pernić and Jasmina Jović. Turnica was bolted despite no one immediately being able to climb it, with the idea that, one day, someone good enough would succeed. Therefore, bolting it comfortably and precisely was difficult. When you clip, as would be obvious, the rope gets in the way of movement, and the route becomes impossible. Many climbers, misled by the grade suggested in the guidebook, choose to move left onto Terre sommerse and avoid the characteristic jump. However, the route was originally intended to be direct. I recommend pre-clipping the second quickdraw on Terre sommerse and then, carefully, clip the second one on Turnica (or you can pre-clip this one too if you feel unsure, as falling with the rope in your hand while clipping is not recommended). This way, the rope no longer hinders your movement. It should be noted that the belayer's skill is also essential. Final note: the crag is on private land. Climbing is permitted for now, but park in a civil way. Be polite and respectful, especially towards locals.