Mosoraški

Nice climb in the shade. Especially liked the crux pitch and the traverse before it. Experience would have been even better with less people climbing but other climbers were expected in such a classic route. Climbed with Iiro Svansjö.

First seven pitches have serious runouts. A lot of no fall zones, but fun to climb. Small to medium sized cams and slings were handy. Pay attention on finding the right anchor on pitch 4. We managed to find a wrong anchor (Besmrtnici 6b+). Therefore I accidentally started pitch 5 climbing the Besmrtnici 6b+ to a point that I realized our error and didn’t feel like downclimbing or leaving gear behind. So I traversed right with shitty gear placements and runouts that my mom would not allow to find the route again. Later I was told that this traverse wasn’t really that fun to follow either. Anchor is on the right, not left. Other anchors were relatively easy to find in my opinion. We combined pitches 6-7 and 9-10. Rope drag on 9-10 was huge. Last 15 meters of the route were my favourite, those sharp crimps felt like home. Grading, especially on easier pitches, is a joke :) At least for a guy like me who doesn’t climb multipitch so often 6a+ or even 6b wouldn’t be exaggerated. Nevertheless, great experience overall! Do it First bigwall. Lead 1, 3, 5, 8. Followed 2, 4, 6-7, 9-10.