To-dos

Beta: Start from loose hold, pull weight up with high right leg, small dyno to good hold on the right.

Middle crux: Grab right and left crimp firmly, lift legs carefully up and reach for high left crimp. Lift legs and continue to better holds. End crux: crimp somewhere, lift right leg, then left, reach for better holds.

Toe hook on far right, with Solutions. move left on to arete, then move it higher on to arete/crimp. Then right arm up.

Start with left index finger in crack, other fingers in small pocket crimp under crack.

Start in X-position with hands on side-pulls and feet on small holds. Lift feet slightly, reach high with right hand to bad sloper, then better. Continue to better holds. Reach for left underpull, lift feet and reach for right underpull, then dead-point to huge holds. Clip third bolt from good hold on left, then grab it with right hand and lift legs high and to the right, dyno/dead-point to hold on ledge with left arm. reposition feet higher, reach higher with hands, then lift right foot on top of small hold on the face, push with left leg under the face and reach higher, then lift right foot onto better hold. Hold the sloping sidepull with right hand and clip.

Moves done, but far from a tick...crazy pumpy long sequence of hard moves in the end...

Right hand on undercling/sidepull, right leg on side of big block. Reach up with left hand, match. Left hand on sidercrimp, lean to the right, right foot on left hand start hold. Right hand on to top part of bigger crimp, legs higher and spread out, then continue with right hand to topleft edge of the smaller crimp. Lift left foot onto big hold on left, right foot far right at the same level. Reach up and to the left to a very bad slightly sharp sloper and hold it. Lift right foot onto a sider, push with toe just enought to be able to dead-point to something bad with right hand (far and to the right).

I think this was the one I tried on the 20th of August 2013. Failed flash attempt. Dirty hold on crux and too scared to do the moves without knowing where the good hold are after the roof, too pumped. Felt harder than many 6b routes I've done abroad.

Alku kadet ristissa oikea jalka vahan vasemmalle ja vasen jalka korkealle. Oikea kasi huonoon sideriin hetkeksi, oikea jalka ylos, deadpoint kahvaan. Keskivalin jalkeen kaydaan vasemmalla, sitten oikeaa katta pidetaan krakissa kolmen muuvin verran. sitten vasen ylos, oikea krimppiin oikealle, vasen tarvittaessa sideriin krakkiin ja sitten toppisloupperiin, sloupperiin, krimppiin.

Right hand pinch, left crimp, feet up and apart. Dyno right hand to jug. Change left hand to jug, dead-point to next jug, lift left foot next to left hand.

End done, never tried beginning...

Vasen jalka kiteelle hyvin. Vasen käsi työntää vasemmalle vähän, oikea työntää voimakkaasti oikealle, krimppijamiin, sitten vasen käsi ylös taaksepäin kaatuessa.

Jalat ylös oikealle, oikea käsi listan yläpäähän, vasen käsi parhaimpaan kohtaan underiksi. Jalkoja ehkä vielä ylös, oikea käsi sloupperille, keskisormi tai nimetön jamiin. Vasen jalka touhuukkimaisesti, polvi alas oikealle, vasen käsi ylös pokettiin. Vasemmalla kädellä jatko hypyllä sloupperiin, match, vasen käsi pidemmälle.

Start with left hand on crimper, right hand on bad sidepull. Left foot quite a bit on the left, right foot up. Balance and swing right hand into crack, use 3 fingers. Left foot up high, pull up and reach to crack with left hand. squeeze and lift right foot onto lowest high position, then dead-point with right hand, lift right foot slightly higher onto the best hold. Then dead-point with left hand to sloper on left, continue with right hand to crimper on right.

Lähdettiin lämppäämään tällä, kun luultiin 6a+:ksi. Tiukka loppu?

Sit-start, lift weight on left foot, grab good hold with left hand. Small mantel with right hand, lift left foot higher, then right foot close to right hand. Right hand into small under-crimp, balance weight onto feet. Reach left with left hand, then lift left foot on hold on left. Underpull for right hand far on the right, fix feet onto good places (left high, right low). Reach for really small and bad crimp with right hand and pull violently to lift right foot onto good placement, dead-point to top.

Sit start, right hand on good sider, left on small crimp, left foot higher and right near ground. Get up, move left, take under-hold with left hand, reach up with right hand. Lift right foot slightly higher, jam left foot in crack on left, twist knee in to the right to keep foot in the crack. Reach up to left hand hold, grab it without index finger so that you can pinch it with thumb. Lift right foot higher under face, then left onto small hold on face. Dead-point to sloper with right hand, fix if necessary. Lift right foot on face (or not), dead-point to sloper-pinch on left with left hand. Match, lift right foot higher, continue to left with hands. Hook on sloper-pinch and roll on top. (Or just use the holds on the left.)

2015-06-07: climbed route to the right, using side-pull sloper and going straight up from there. about 6A

Wide hands start, left hand to jug, right foot up, right hand to open hand crimp. Left hanf to jug, match feet, ry ght foot heel hook. right hand over, back fown, slopsloper , to jug, match left hand on good crimp . Right foot to sidr of shelf, left crocross to suport, left hand to best part of crimp on left. kick legs out, the right on foot hold on left, right hanf to left on sloper. eweight doen, dont lift left leg, matcjh hands. lift lefy foot, jam slightly, right foot middlr of bad holf left knee in and to the right , deqdpoint to left. right hanf on bettrr hold, left hand further, match feet, match hands, deadpoint to top.

Climb this true diamond!

Written after more than a week after two tries on the route: Climb first couple of bolts to restful jugs before tufa section. When leaving the rest, cross right hand to left-most jug and lift right foot to holds on the left and then reach for the slopy tufa with left hand, left foot to the left of the tufa. Take the small right hand undercling as a two-finger pocket and gradually lift feet and left hand along tufa. Take next undercling with right hand and continue up the tufa with left hand until you reach the small bulgy bit before it gets wider. Lift feet as high as possible, continue to right side of juggy undercling with right hand, pinch it and lift feet higher until the undercling get better. Match to undercling, shake right hand quickly, clip draw below waist with left hand, shake again. Lift left foot higher and deadpoint to sharp pinch with right hand, hold it. Lift feet to the right and get ready for deadpointing from undercling to crimpy hold next to the bolt above the bulge. Do it. Take the swing by concentrating on right foot, then use left foot to move right foot onto better hold slightly higher. Match hands, lift right foot onto worn crimp, continue to jug on the left with left hand. Breath, shake, get ready to clip. Focus on body tension between left hand and right foot while clipping last bolt before the anchor. Take another rest, shake that pump off. Where are all the good footholds?! Stop 'resting'. Go for that awesome sharp crimp with left hand, lift right foot high onto the bulgy bit and continue with right hand onto the bad crimp on the right. Pull weight up and match left hand to even worse crimp, continue with right hand to tufa, pinch it on the top. Reach up high to left hand pinch, then match feet and turn body so that right foot is ready to propel you to those last sharp holds. Reach with right hand while pushing with legs, than match to the sharp jug below the anchor. Use feet to keep weight balanced to the right while clipping anchor.

Climb from right, clip first. On the right, grab good big sharp pocket and clip second. Lift feet next to pocket and crimp with right hand while clipping third. Match on arete, lean to left, crimp on left and left foot to the right, continue left hand to jug sidepull. Lift right foot first, left foot onto crimp, continue right hand, lift right foot onto arete. Left hand sidepull, right hand higher on arete until you reach crimp on arete. Clip fourth. Left hand on good crimp, right hand to round hold as sidepull, lean left to clip fifth. Left hand to jug, slap right hand higher to good sidepull, left foot on jug, clip sixth. Right hand higher onto arete where there is good place for thumb, left hand on bad sidepull, weight on left foot, right foot onto arete, higher, left hand higher, then into pocket.